Recioto della Valpolicella: The History and Secrets of the “Father” of Amarone
Recioto della Valpolicella: discover this one-of-a-kind wine.
If Valpolicella stands today as one of the world’s most celebrated wine regions, it owes its prestige to an ancient, precious, and sweet wine that embodies the very essence of the territory: Recioto.
Often overshadowed by the global success of its renowned ‘son,’ Amarone, Recioto is not merely the historical predecessor: it is the origin of a production technique that remains unparalleled. At Cesari, we consider this wine as far more than a simple post-meal indulgence, but a testament to a farming tradition that mastered the art of patience to create excellence.
What is Recioto: the sweet wine of Valpolicella
Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG isn’t simply a passito wine. Its roots reach deep into Roman times, when it was known as Acinaticum, a dense, intensely sweet wine praised by historians such as Cassiodorus. The name itself, “Recioto,” derives from the local Veronese dialect term recia, meaning “ear.”
In ancient times, grape growers selectively harvested the topmost bunches of the vine – the parts most exposed to the sun and therefore richest in sugars – which resembled the shape of small ears. This wine represents the ancestral soul of our valley: a velvety red born from the deliberate, forced rest of the grapes.
While Amarone is a wine where all the sugars have been transformed into alcohol, Recioto represents a perfect harmony where fermentation is naturally arrested. This preserves a natural sweetness – never cloying – supported by a tannic and acidic structure that grants the wine timeless longevity.
Recioto winemaking: grape drying or “Appassimento”
The secret to Recioto’s extraordinary aromatic density lies in a millenary ritual: grape drying (appassimento).In our vineyards, it all begins between September and October with the manual selection of the finest Corvina Veronese, Rondinella, and Corvinone grapes – harvested early.
These selected bunches are carefully laid out in single layers in crates and placed in the fruttaio, a spacious, well-ventilated loft where the grapes rest for 100 to 120 days. During this winter sleep, the water gradually evaporates, concentrating the sugars, polyphenols, and aromas within the berry.
This is a critical phase that demands constant monitoring: humidity and temperature must be managed with expert precision to prevent harmful molds and instead encourage the development of complex aromatics. In this regard, the Cesari Grape Drying Loft (Fruttaio) is a crown jewel of our Fumane winery, where the ancient ritual of drying meets state-of-the-art monitoring technology to ensure optimal resting conditions.
After the drying process, the grapes are pressed. Fermentation follows – slow and at a controlled temperature – and is interrupted before completion to preserve a portion of the natural sugars. Historically, it is believed that a “failed” or interrupted fermentation of Recioto is what gave birth to Amarone; this is why Recioto is widely regarded as the “father” of Valpolicella’s most famous wine.
Finally, in our cellar, the wine undergoes a short maturation of about 6 months in the bottle, which harmonizes its structure and elegance.
Tasting notes: what to expect from a Cesari Recioto
The result of a journey that begins in the vineyard, continues in the fruttaio, and culminates in the cellar is our Recioto della Valpolicella Classico DOCG: an intense, silky, and well-structured wine.
It is characterized by a deep purple-red color, with aromas of cherries in spirits, mixed berry jam, and blackberries, with finishing notes of cocoa, coffee, and myrtle. On the palate, it is soft and fresh, displaying solid structure with silky, well-balanced tannins.
Ideal pairings: not just for dessert
As a sweet wine, Recioto is considered the ideal companion for Veronese pastries – think of Pandoro (with or without filling) or the traditional Sbrisolona – yet its culinary versatility surprises even the most experienced palates.
Thanks to its structure and aromatic complexity, Cesari Recioto excels in contrast-based pairings. For instance, it makes an ideal match for intense blue cheeses like spicy Gorgonzola or Stilton: the sweetness of Recioto balances the saltiness of the cheese, creating a striking flavor profile.
Back to sweet pairings, Recioto finds another ideal partner in high-percentage dark chocolate, as it is one of the few wines capable of balancing the persistence of the cocoa bean.
For a daring pairing, Recioto can also accompany meat dishes featuring red fruit reductions or foie gras. However, it is highly recommended to enjoy it on its own as a meditation wine: a glass to be sipped slowly at the end of a meal to fully appreciate every nuance.
Come and discover Cesari Recioto at our Wine Shop di Fumane!